The Forager
chef tested hard to find and unsual products
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TOQUE |
Toque
of New York / Boston
It A Matter of Tasting
By Linda Kavanagh |
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One
of the many things I love about being a food writer
is the opportunity to taste such a wide variety of
dishes. To break it down even further, I enjoy experiencing
various ingredients, preparations, presentations,
and combinations. I especially relish the sights,
sounds, and personalities of the numerous restaurants
I discover. As I bring along my trusty companions
to explore these restaurants, my usual plan of attack
is to ask the chef and the waiter if it’s possible
to have a tasting menu – a cross section of
what’s on the regular menu. This way I can get
a good overview of the menu without overeating, and
more importantly, wasting any food. I also appreciate
when the restaurant is able to pair the perfect wine
with each course. Most places are more than happy
to oblige. On my most recent restaurant visits to
some new and exciting eateries, they more than obliged
me – they surprised me. The following restaurants
are a taste of what’s proving to be the dining
style of choice. Tasting menus are on the rise. No
longer just for food writers, these fabulous food
and wine samplings are being offered in some of the
most amazing new restaurants by some of the most innovative
chefs. |
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Taste |
Taste,
the brainchild of New York City food guru Eli
Zabar, has given birth to a self-serve
café by day and wine bar by night, adjacent
to Eli’s Manhattan gourmet
market. Chef Scott Bieber creates
flavor-driven New American menus that change frequently
and incorporate Eli’s world
of the finest and freshest produce, seafood, and
meat available to him. A small plate menu offers
dinners a chance to experience many different flavors
and pair them with a rotating selection of 30 wines
served in both tasting servings and by the glass.
Roasted spicy mussels with Italian sausage, pizzetta
with red onion, figs and blue cheese, swordfish
pillard with salas verde, and even Eli’s
toasted cheese and tomato sandwich come
with intriguing wine recommendations. The ever-changing
dinner menu highlights the best market fresh items
such as wild salmon with roasted root vegetables,
Stone Church Farm poussin with soft polenta and
collard greens, and roasted whole branzine with
asparagus and grapefruit tapenade. A cheese cart
of twenty or so perfectly ripened cheeses is also
a real treat for those experimenting with the many
wines by the glass. Winemaker dinners and other
special wine-focused events are part of what makes
this restaurant a special experience.
W.I.N.E.,
Eli’s wine shop, can be seen through the bar’s
glass back wall.
You try – you can buy!
Taste
1413 3rd Avenue at
80th Street, New York
212.717.9798 |
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Meritage |
Chef
Daniel Bruce of the Boston
Harbor Hotel has recently launched his
own signature restaurant at the hotel called Meritage.
The new restaurant, overlooking a spectacular view
of Boston Harbor from Rowes Wharf, showcases Bruce’s
extraordinary dedication to fresh ingredients, thoughtfully
prepared to complement the characteristics of wines.
Meritage’s dishes are created
matching food to wine, in a progression of flavors
from lightest to heaviest, as recommended by Chef
Bruce. We left things up to our waiter on this particular
night. We began with “sparklers”
paired with sturgeon caviar over melted leeks and
frothed crème fraiche. Our “light
white” wine was matched with a braised
skate wing with crisp lotus root chips and carrot
ginger broth. Then came grilled sea scallops with
black truffles and porcini mushrooms with a more
“full-bodied white.” Our “fruity
red” was experienced with a duet of pastrami
cured and buttermilk-fried leg of Sonoma squab with
shallot confit. A “spicy/earthy red”
was just delicious with black pepper crusted seared
rare yellowfin tuna with a zinfandel butter. Finally,
the “robust red” wine was teamed
with a hearty dish of cabernet slow braised boneless
short ribs with parsnip and rosemary spoonbread.
Need I say more? Cheeses and sweets also come in
tasting plates and all plates are offered in small
and large. The price points are high, but taking
into consideration the charming dining room, waterfront
view, superior service, and the flawlessness of
the meal, it’s well worth it.
Meritage
Boston Harbor Hotel
70 Rowes Wharf, Boston
617.439.3995 |
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Serafina
Sandro |
For
the past seven years restaurateurs Vittorio
Assaf and Fabio Granato have
been serving up their brand of Northern Italian
cuisine to native New Yorkers and curious tourists
in their various “Serafina”
eateries. With three successful restaurants to date,
the duo recently opened Serafina Sandro
with celebrated chef Sandro Fioriti.
This midtown gem is an intimate, authentic Roman
trattoria offering dinners the most delicious and
reasonably priced meal in the city. Sandro is a
real character. His waitstaff follows his lead as
he personally prepares each dish to order. While
the menu outlines antipasti, insalate, primi piatta,
and secondi piatta dishes, best to just let Sandro
prepare what he’s recently had imported and
what the season governs. Family style dining is
recommended here so go with a group who is prepared
to “dig in” and be surprised. Highlights
include fabulous imported specialties such as first
press olive oil over Italian wild hickory and anchovies,
Italian smoked tuna with thinly sliced artichokes,
and special reserve prosciutto with house made mozzarella
and roasted tri-color peppers. Roast suckling pig
was on every table that particular afternoon, dusted
with aromatic fennel flour straight from Abruzia.
Pastas are perfectly chewy. Bucatini with pancetta,
tomatoes, cherry peppers and onions, as well as
the garganelli with imported Italian hillside tomatoes
and basil are perfection. The wine list is strictly
comprised of Antinori Family wines.
Nothing wrong with that in my book!
Serafina
Sandro
38 58th Street between
Park and Madison, New York
212.832.8888 |
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Saint |
What
do you make of a restaurant that tags itself as
“sexy food, mini cuisine?” Saint
is just that. A hybrid of a chic downtown
boutique nightery and sophisticated lounge/restaurant
that offers an eclectic array of tapas style dishes
created by acclaimed Chef Rene Michelena
(Food & Wine Best New Chef 1998). Michelena
was born in the Philippines and grew up in Manila,
which is evident in his Mediterranean and Asian
influenced cuisine. While Saint’s
space takes on an almost underground aura
with such rooms named as The Bordello and The Threshold,
the menu is not as covert. Unconventional seating
in the form of lounge chairs, sofas, ottomans, and
cocktail tables are clustered about. Various taste
sensations cover these tables on any given night
with Michelna’s two and three tiered plate
holders. “Chilled” items include
Thai beef tartar, zucchini and crab meatballs, and
spicy tuna maki roll. “Warmer” plates
such as sweet pea and mint ravioli, veal potstickers,
and lemony chicken and beet fries, begin to take
on a full meal effect, bite-by-bite. “Hot
and Heavy” dishes are a must share, as
they all tend to be exactly that. Grilled monkfish
medallions, macaroni and cheese with truffle butter,
and bbq pork tenderloin and oyster mushroom skewers
are all delicious and decadent. “Communal”
offerings include mini sampling menus, artisanal
cheese selections, and various caviar services (including
champagne pairings). Creative cocktails and mainstream
wines abound, the music is just as intoxicating,
but the food is the real showstopper here.
Saint
90 Exeter Street,
Boston
617.236.1134 |
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Fleur
de Sel |
Seasonal
tasting menus only make sense. I’ve often
wondered (and marveled) how some restaurants keep
up their extensive menu as the season’s change.
Relationships with various purveyors, near and far,
are obviously key, but does that mean the consumer
ends up paying more for off-season items? Wouldn’t
it just be easier to offer dinners what is available
without raising the price points just to keep to
the printed menu? Chef/Owner Cyril Renaud
of Fleur de Sel (flower
of salt) offers seasonal tasting menus at his modern
French bistro in the Flatiron district of New York.
A six-course tasting menu can be paired with wine
for a reasonable up-charge. Our warm summer evening
dinner consisted of blue point oysters with shallot-tomato
mignonette, goat cheese and artichoke ravioli with
American caviar, Florida shrimp swimming in a lobster
bisque-like reduction with mussels, and almond crusted
soft shell crab with wild ramps and spiced port
wine sauce. We then had a choice of potato-crusted
wild grouper or Mississippi Farm quail with morel
sauce and seared foie gras. For dessert fresh banana
mousse with crème de café and chocolate
dentelle prepared by Pastry Chef Yvan Lemoine,
had us planning our next seasonal visit!
Fleur
de Sel
5 East 20th Street, New York
212.460.9100 |
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Bambara |
The
Hotel Marlowe, a contemporary/17th century
colonial styled boutique hotel in Cambridge is the
home of Bambara, an American Brasserie created by
Executive Chef Thomas Berry. Berry,
best known for his years as sous chef for Ming
Tsai’s popular Blue Ginger restaurant,
embraces all that is American with a strong influence
on New England fare. The menu is perfect for grazing.
Berry has a simple approach to food – and
to his menu. “Crispy” dishes
include clam rolls with tartar sauce, Maine crab
cake, and brie and wild mushroom dumplings. Some
“fancy” items are tuna tartar
served with salmon carpaccio and avocado with spicy
aioli and a grilled quail with truffle white bean
puree. “Leafy” salads are simply
sinful: Caesar salad “cocktail”
with shrimp toasts and a frisee salad with duck
confit and foie gras drizzle throws thoughts of
low-cal out the window! “Soupy”
concoctions are tomato bisque with mini grilled
cheese, sweet potato and chipolte soup, and steamed
PEI mussels with smoked bacon, escarole and tomatoes.
“Munchy” creations include
black pepper chicken wings, focaccia sandwiches,
and pommes frites with two-peppercorn aioli. “Mainly”
dishes are ample size portions of braised lamb shank,
Dijon grilled hanger steak, and crab-crusted Pacific
halibut. The dining room is inviting with jewel-like
colors, cushy booth seating, a grand open kitchen,
handcrafted light fixtures and magnificent floor
to ceiling windows. Anything goes at this casual,
sometimes dressy, contemporary brassiere.
Bambara
25 Edwin Land Blvd, Hotel Marlowe,
Cambridge
617.868.4444
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